It can get pretty crowded in the
vineyards of France. Within Champagne and Burgundy vine densities of around 10000
plants per hectare are normal, but more congested planting is not exceptional. Head
south, towards the Midi, and viticulture becomes more spacious: fewer vines, less
leaves and shoots, and much more visible earth.
When I first consulted someone about planting densities for Tixover, the
advice was “a tractor width plus a metre x 1.5 metre”; which worked out to 2000
plants per hectare for a 70hp machine. From somebody that had been in the UK
business for a considerable time, this was sound practical advice; Nature is
hard to dominate without mechanical assistance, and bare soil favours a rapid return
to the full diversity of the indigenous flora rather than the unchallenged success
of an invasive monoculture. Still, hoeing is hoeing, and the move from man to
horses and tractors as the means of weed suppression, if anything, lowered vine
densities within Burgundy and Champagne. For the monks of the Abbaye, the hoe
must have been an instrument of self-flagellation.
There is an economic argument for
high vine densities: more vines = more fruit, and a better return per hectare.
In 2004, Champagne produced 140hl/ha. A small and early harvest in 2003 led to
a proliferation in bud numbers and vine reserves, and this potential was fully
realised in the near perfect flowering conditions of 2004. The subsequent
harvest yielded both quality and quantity.
Another perspective on vine
density is offered by Alain Carbonneau of Bordeaux University. In cool climates
– Northern France, UK, Germany – Carbonneau suggests that shoot length needs to
be a minimum of 80% of row width, in order that the vines are put under
conditions that favour the induction of hydric stress. Carbonneau’s thesis is
that the water capacity of a vineyard soil is depleted more rapidly if the
total exposed leaf area of the overlying vineyard is maximised. This
prescription works itself out into some interesting ratios. Burgundy’s 1m x 1m
planting with a 20cm fruiting wire and shoot topping at 80cm perfectly
satisfies Carbonneau’s conditions; whilst a row width of 1.6m demands a shoot
length of 1.3m. Worryingly, the recommended tractor-friendly row dimension of 3m
would require unworkable 2.4m long shoots to achieve similarly advantageous proportions.
What is common to Bordeaux,
Burgundy and Champagne is that the peak in seasonal water deficits coincides
with veraison. At some point between late July and early August, the vines divert
their resources away from vegetative growth and towards fruit ripening. On the
Cote de Nuits, crop evapotranspiration for the 4 week period that has veraison
at its centre averages 130mm, with precipitation only replacing 60mm of this
loss. Assuming that the vines' access to soil moisture is limited (arguably the
defining characteristic of Burgundy’s finest appellations) then vine and berry
growth will be constrained, and ripening accelerated. Just how these benefits
are conferred on the bunches is still open for discussion. Richard Smart sees the
advantages of water deficits deriving indirectly from reduced vigour and the
concomitant improvement of the light environment in and around the clusters;
whilst Mark Matthews and Stefano Poni posit a more direct link between
advantageous gene expression and soil drying. Neither view precludes the other,
but which side of the argument you favour has consequences as to how you spend
your time in the vineyard. Those who follow
Smart believe leaf removal, green pruning and vine architecture can
substitute for terroir, whereas subscribers to the Matthews' dictum, “It’s the
journey and not the destination that matters” will spend their time seeking out
pedological conditions that optimise vine stress.
It may well be that in the UK's
relatively damp, cool and sunless climate we have to embrace both strategies, and view the
theories and prescriptions of Smart and Matthews as being in some sense simultaneous,
rather than conflicting. On average, Burgundy picks Pinot Noir at 940GDD after
budburst, and Champagne 870GDD. Nowadays, these summations are achieved in
mid-September, but under the UKs maritime climatic regime these values are
reached (if at all) in October, under lowering skies, downward spiralling
temperatures and the constant threat of rain.
The skewed pattern in phenology between France’s northern appellations and
the vineyards of Southern England is entrenched by flowering. Mid-floraison in
Champagne and Burgundy occurs 2-3 weeks ahead of the most precocious English
vineyards, which pushes veraison on this side of the Channel into late August
and early September, when crop evapotranspiration and precipitation are often equivalent,
and thus, free of hydric stress.
One anxiety voiced against close
planting is that it increases the shading of one canopy by another. Logically,
more distant rows will intercept more of the early morning and late evening sun
than rows of the same height planted closer together. The idea has appeal, but as
the illustration below shows (Courtesy of Cornell University) the gains from
planting wider are marginal, and almost certainly counterproductive, as vigour and
canopy shading will tend to increase at lower vine densities.
The other multiple used to calculate
vine density is within row spacing. As was the case with row width, the higher vineyards
push into the eaves of the l’Hexagone,
the tighter the spacing between the vines becomes. At Tixover, our widest
spacing is 1.2 metres, and our narrowest 0.6 metres. The wider spacing reflects
the advice we were given when we first planted the site, but we have since
discovered that our vines are only comfortable pushing 5-6 shoots of even
vigour. To avoid shoot congestion and
acrotony along the fruiting canes we decided to spur prune the vines.
The above choices have given us
two vine densities: the 0.6mx1.7m= 9700 vines per/ha; and the 1.2mx1.7m= 4800
vines per/ha. All vines have 1.3m, 15 node shoots, which gets us close to the
ratio of shoot length to row width suggested by Carbonneau. The canopy density
has been excellent in both vineyards, though we do remove two leaves on every
shoot at fruit set - those immediately adjacent to and above the second cluster
– to improve light exposure during the pre-veraison period when intra-bunch
shading is minimal.
As with any field-based trial,
the confounding variable is often the weather. Somewhere between May and July of
this year, we lost nearly a month’s worth of an already short growing season,
and I am doubtful that the crop will ever reach maturity. Interestingly, vigour
this year has shown no increase despite the rainfall, and berry size at
lag-phase is small. This can be interpreted in several ways, but I suspect root
growth was suppressed by soil saturation through the spring, and the subsequent
dry and warm weather we have experienced since fruit set has inducted some
stress into the vines. Unfortunately, the two AG moisture probes we have in the
ground have also become victims of the weather, so we will have to wait until
next year to get good data on fluctuations in soil moisture availability and capacity.
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